More on glass

 A few details about the fiberglass work so far...

The tape was stripped and two more 'fill coats' have been added to the hull to smooth out the texture of the cloth.  A few more 'gory details' about the process.

  • We used 6oz cloth, one piece over the entire hull, plus additional bits to reinforce the seams at the stern, and a reinforcing panel over the entire bottom from stem knuckle to the end of the fore-keel (about 7'). 
  • The second coat filled most of the cloth texture, but not all spots.  I deliberately did not try to 'gob it on' to fill all the voids.  The resin sets slowly, and would almost certainly run/sag, which would leave drip marks *and* the cloth weave.  
  • The third coat was mixed with about 20% of microballoons as a fairing compound.  This did fill most of the remaining fabric texture, and will be much easier to sand.  
  • I found that the simplest (and least messy) way to load the surface with resin was to hold the spreader on the surface at an angle (about 30 degrees off parallel to the floor), and pour resin to the point where the spreader contacts the surface - while moving laterally to keep the spreader from dripping.  Applying about an ounce at a time allowed me to coat 3-4 square feet.  
  • Before using an electric sander, you really need to wait 48 hours to allow the resin to fully harden.  Otherwise, it will 'heat smear' which just messes up the surface.
  • Isopropyl alcohol seems to do a great job of cleanup for spreaders and even syringes.  I actually put a piece of rosin paper down on a steel table, dumped the stick spreaders on the paper, poured a liberal shot of isopropyl on the spreaders, and rubbed them against the paper.  A quick wipe with a paper towel, and they were ready to go.  This seems a lot more friendly than MEK, acetone or other solvents I've seen suggested.  

Monday night is 'flip night'.  If you are in the TC and interested, we'll be at the Hack Factory at 8:00 for 'liftoff'!

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